A peninsula ringed by pretty whiteish-sand beaches and surrounded by a smattering of very attractive islands, Sihanoukville
is Cambodia’s premier beach location. Do its beaches rival those that
lure the hordes to neighbouring Thailand? We reckon they do — at least
those on the offshore islands anyway.
Sihanoukville town is Cambodia’s youngest city. It sprang to life in 1955 when a construction team arrived at what was then known as Kompong Som
to begin work on Cambodia’s first (and only) deep water port. When the
port was finished in 1960 the area was renamed Sihanoukville (in honour
of then King Sihanouk) but many Cambodians continue to refer to it as Kompong Som.
The Khmer Rouge kept Sihanoukville largely off-limits to all but the
most intrepid travellers for years. But today, with a good road from
Phnom Penh and an airport where regular flights operate (finally!),
Sihanoukville is drawing a steady stream of backpackers along with
expatriates down from Phnom Penh for lazy weekends and longer breach breaks.
But, to be honest, most people are no longer coming for Sihanoukville
town itself, but rather its islands offshore. Yes, you can relax on the
mainland beaches, but you’ll be selling yourself short if you don’t
visit at least one of the islands. Which one is right for you?
The first time we visited Sihanoukville way back when, we loved it, the
second time less so; each time after that less so again, as its seediness started to outshine the prettiness.
Despite its newfound popularity, the town has a somewhat abandoned feel
to it, amplified by the number of half-built or deserted plots of land
marked out by high and imposing fences — plots often “owned” by business
people with sometimes dubious land titles and an eye for a fast buck.
As Thailand slowly tightened its visa regulations, it seemed there was a
commensurate influx to Sihanoukville of crusty, sex-tourist types who
have certainly contributed to the rising number of dodgy bars.
Sihanoukville also has a long-running problem with foreign and local
paedophiles.
And though it’s a beach town, it’s not the most relaxing place. Plenty
of construction projects in all parts of the town make sleeping in a
luxury and time spent on many of the beaches is punctuated by repeated
requests from street children and local vendors to buy bracelets, make
donations or have massages.
And though it’s a beach town, it’s not the most relaxing place. Plenty
of construction projects in all parts of the town make sleeping in a
luxury and time spent on many of the beaches is punctuated by repeated
requests from street children and local vendors to buy bracelets, make
donations or have massages.