Koh Thmei is part of Ream National Park but this hasn't stopped the government from selling a substantial amount of the island to the highest bidder.
Right now the island is mostly empty; although a few families live on
the island, there's not so much as a village and the only current
accommodation is the eight wooden bungalows that comprise Koh Thmei Resort.
Their owners believe that they were allowed to open because of their
eco-friendly policies; they power it by day using solar panels and have a
complex natural water filtration system. You'll occasionally find the
local police drinking beers there who have a station round the corner — a
10-minute walk away along a narrow, long stretch of sandy and shell
beach from the small resort.
A 99-year lease has been granted to one of the main property developers in Sihanoukville,
a Malaysian firm, which plans to build a resort town on 2,000 hectares
of the island and a bridge to the mainland. They've promised to protect
at least 40% of the island but we're not holding our breath.
A week before our last trip here, in late 2014, the first inklings of
action seemed to have taken place — though in Cambodia this doesn't
necessarily mean much more will happen for months, if not years. The
diggers had moved in and cut down a stretch of forest to create a
clearing for what may become a road and, in time, no doubt the resort
that is the nightmare of most seekers of natural, deserted,
tropical-island beauty. This is taking place at the other end of the
island from Koh Thmei Resort, where you'll be pleased to know you'll
only hear the lapping of waves.
Thus the island remains practically pristine. Flanked
by mangrove forests, the island is a natural paradise that is as far
from Sihanoukville as night is from day. Koh Thmei is the habitat of
many types of interesting wildlife, particularly birds. Over 150 types
of birds make their home in the park and a trip to the island offers
ample bird-watching opportunities. To be fair, they seem to have their
share of bugs as well.
The beaches are sandy — not as glowing yellow as others we've seen, with
plenty of shells making more of a crunch than a squeak underfoot. A
problem with almost all the islands we've visited in Cambodia — thanks
to ocean currents — is that plenty of rubbish gets washed ashore. Based
on the fact so much packaging is written in Vietnamese it seems a lot
comes from there; Phu Quoc is spitting distance from Koh Thmei.
Thankfully Koh Thmei Resort does a grand job of keeping its beaches
litter free with daily tidy ups.
Snorkellers will be happy with the possibilities around
the coral reefs and the beaches are piled with exotic seashells for
those who don't want to go underwater. Athletic types can kayak and when
the weather's right, even surf.
Phone service is accessible on the island through Metfone and Smart, but there is no WiFi.
Phone service is accessible on the island through Metfone and Smart, but there is no WiFi.